The announcement

Kering said on Friday that Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after ten years as creative director of the French fashion house. The Belgian designer was appointed in April 2016 to succeed Hedi Slimane, and his exit makes Saint Laurent the last Kering brand to part with its creative director amid a luxury slowdown that has already prompted designer changes at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta. Kering said a new creative director will be announced soon but did not name one. Vaccarello is 44 years old. Luca de Meo, the group's chief executive, praised his work in a statement.

Thanks to his creative vision and his rigorous standards, he helped strengthen the lasting influence of one of the great French haute couture houses, as we prepare to write a new chapter in its history.

A decade of growth

Vaccarello took over from Hedi Slimane and built the label on strong Chinese demand, runway shows staged in front of the Eiffel Tower and a push into film production. Sales reached 3.2 billion euros in 2023, up from just over 1 billion euros in 2016, a rise driven in particular by the men's line. Saint Laurent co-produced three films in competition at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival, including Emilia Pérez by Jacques Audiard. Born in Belgium to Italian parents, Vaccarello studied at La Cambre in Brussels, worked at Fendi and launched his own label in 2009, and in 2013 Donatella Versace brought him in to revive Versus. Cédric Charbit, president and chief executive of Saint Laurent, credited him with the brand's rise.

Anthony took Saint Laurent onto an extraordinary trajectory, raising the maison to the top in terms of desirability and image, while doing exceptional work both creatively and through its cultural impact.

Slowing sales and the share price

Saint Laurent's gross revenues fell 9% in 2024 and 6% in 2025 before largely stabilizing this year, Kering said. Kering shares are down 31% this year, and the group is due to report third-quarter sales on 22 October. Luca de Meo is seeking to overhaul the group after years of decline, and gaining a foothold in the Chinese market is a top priority. Shares of Kering rose in Paris trading after the announcement.

The final show and the rumours

Rumours about the exit had circulated for some time, and the house had first denied them. The 29 September show took place in front of the Eiffel Tower under three massive gold chandeliers, and the finale played out in darkness. Vaccarello then walked the runway with his models and handed a set of keys to his son Luca, who was seated in the front row. The show already had the air of a farewell, and the designer's final collection featured golden looks.

Who could succeed him

Kering has not named a successor, and his next role has not been announced. Reports cited by RFI and Il Sole 24 Ore name Chemena Kamali, artistic director of Chloé and formerly at Saint Laurent, as a possible candidate. Il Sole 24 Ore also reports, citing industry gossip, that Vaccarello could land at Balenciaga or Vuitton unless he commits fully to film. Kering has said only that the new creative director will be announced soon.